The Future of Food

An agricultural age gap may threaten the future of farming, but organizations like Viva Farms and Skagitonians to Preserve Farmland are set on saving the farming lifestyle.

By Gabriel Guevara

December 13, 2020

Between the Cascade Mountain Range and the Puget Sound, northwest Washington is bursting with rich agricultural land, nurtured by a mild coastal climate and high rainfall. But, as the average age of farmers rises, the local and regional food economy stands at risk if there isn’t a new generation ready to take their place.

Located in Skagit and King County, nonprofit organization Viva Farms is helping to secure the future of local food production. The organization offers education, resources and land to aspiring farmers as the food economy moves into the hands of a new generation.

The average age of agricultural producers is witnessing a dramatic increase due to younger generations’ reluctance to replace ageing farmers, according to the Committee on World Food Security, consequently creating a ‘generation gap’.

To help address the problem in western Washington, Viva Farms established the Farm Business Incubator program. It is a bilingual program offering support to both beginning and experienced farm workers.

Members of the program receive access to land, equipment, markets and training to help them build an independent farming career.

Mathew and Giana Cioni, the owners of Crows Farm, began leasing land in Skagit County through Viva Farms in fall 2014. Despite setbacks caused by the pandemic and a trouble recruiting workers, the Cioni’s were able to adapt their small family farm and have a successful season.

“I think that being in the organic food business right now is a good place to be. People are really interested in where their food comes from,” said Giana Cioni, in reference to the unknowns introduced by the pandemic when factories shut down. “I think a lot of people turn to their local food supply.”

Still, there can be a separation between the people and where their food actually comes from. In an attempt to reinforce the bond between producer and consumer, Viva Farms established a community supported agriculture (CSA) program.

The CSA program is a subscription-based service. Once subscribed, members receive a weekly package from their local farms loaded with seasonal organic vegetables and berries. Such programs first arose in the U.S. in 1986 with just two farms.

By 2007, over 1,700 farms utilized the program. Viva has embraced CSA as a sales model, inviting people in Skagit County to share in the risk of farming. By purchasing farmers’ produce in advance, the community gives these farmers the assurance their products will be sold.

Supporting the preservation of the local and regional food economy, Viva Farms continues to offer assistance in the struggle to keep farming alive. But there is another group in Skagit County who is looking out for the wellbeing of farmers as well.

Skagitonians to Preserve Farmland (SPF) advocates for the long-term viability of agriculture within Skagit County. From creating a program to permanently preserve areas of farmland to hosting farm tours so the public gains a deeper understanding of agricultural infrastructure, the group aims to establish a legacy of successful farmers and protected farmland for present and future generations.

Ben White, professor emeritus of rural sociology at Erasmus University Rotterdam, said the challenge of finding land to farm is the main barrier for younger generations. SPF offers a program that works with people seeking farmland and connects them with farmers who are either selling or leasing their land. This preserves the farmland that otherwise might be developed for non-agricultural use.

“Farmland is constantly shrinking and we’re always fighting the battle to keep as many acres as possible,” said Rachel Sorrels, development and administration manager of SPF. “The more that farming and farmland disappear, the harder it is for people to provide food for the rest of the world.”

A unique aspect of Skagit Valley is how farmers practice crop rotation, said Sorrels. She gave the example of a cabbage farmer planting in one location and a potato farmer planting in another. After the crops are harvested, the two farmers may then swap their areas of farmland for the next cycle of planting. Crop rotation is a vital technique used for conserving Skagit County’s rich soil and nutrients.

Each year, Skagit County farmers gather to collaborate on the next crop rotation. This strategic occasion is locally referred to as a “pinning.” During the pinning, farmers work together to identify the best possible locations for produce in the coming planting season.

For the past 21 years, Julie and Gerry Minor have owned and operated Faithland Growers. In the midst of the pandemic, the family farm is only receiving a fraction of their estimated profit from tourists. But the Skagit Valley community is helping this business to thrive. Loyal customers are spending more money in an effort to keep the family farm afloat, said Gerry Minor.

Farming is traditionally passed down through generations within established farming families, said Sorrels. Considering the high cost of land, if one is not in such a succession, it is incredibly hard to get into the profession, she said.

The Minors said their business will not be taken over by their children. Generally, the generation gap exists because young people find farm life unappealing, according to White. The Minors argued a major barrier is how hard it is to turn a profit.

“The mentality nowadays is about money. Money is supposedly your self-worth,” said Gerry Minor. “It seems to be pounded into this generation more than the sweat of the brow, which now seems to be a thing of the past.”

Right now, the future of food is blurry. Farmers of today struggle against challenges spread by COVID-19. Farmers of tomorrow face the hurdle of entering the profession. But if organizations like Viva Farms and SPF continue to fight for preserving the agricultural lifestyle, if the bond between farmer and community is nourished and continues to grow, then the future of food may not be so bleak.

“It’s increasingly difficult to be a small farmer and it’s increasingly difficult to become a new farmer,” said Sorrels. “Until we change how people think about food and the value of food and the value of everything, we will continue to see a growing divide between the haves and have nots.”

Gabriel Guevara is senior at Western working towards a communications studies major.